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Big Thromson Mesa near Bullfrog Creek |
Heading south into Utah with my new navigator Chris, sitting in while Trixie was on holiday in Washington state I wanted to show Chris Utah's amazing landscape. We only had 4 days. Looking at maps I figured out what was to be the most memorable scenario. I decided that if we headed south then we could make our way back north and eventually back on the TAT heading through Idaho and Oregon.
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Hartnet Road upper south Desert, Capital Reef National Park |
Feeling that this was a good game plan we drove south from SLC all the way down SR68 to Goshen. Driving east to jump on I-15 south we caught SR28 outside of Nephi and continued south to Salina. Refueled, grab a couple of x-large coffees and off we went. Our goal was to camp our first night at Cathedral Valley Campground in Capital Reef National Park about 275 miles south of SLC Airport.
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Cathedral Valley Campground Overlook |
The rugged landscape changed as we traveled south to
Salina back to the
Fishlake National Forest. I-70 was ahead and we went east looking for the dirt road turn off to the back door of Cathedral Valley. NPS921 was in our sights and we were excited to enter this magical fold of the earth's crust. Driving on the trail heading south the day light started to fade as night time shadows
appeared. The full moon was unexpected and was certainly a delight as we entered the valley through twists, turns and muddy water crossings. Switching on our trail lights we negotiated the trail as it wound through towering ominous shadows. Loose rock, muddy shoulders and a sandy bottom was par for the course while we crawled our way through this monumental landscape of extraterrestrial shaped rocks and eroded sandstone formed from millions of years exposure.
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Hartnet Junction Road Cathedral Valley |
Totally stoked we entered the Park from the backdoor during a full moon night. There was no one else in sight as we navigated the trail bathed in moon light- just incredible to say the least. Deep shadows highlighted the ancient monoliths as we passed them like ships in the night. We started to climb the trail now rocky with large boulders thrown across the trail like kids playing marbles. 4wd low negotiating the loose rocks, keeping my rig centered on the narrow switch backs, tires gripping like claws of an eagle we crawled up the loose trail with purchase.
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Hartnet Road looking north South Desert |
We made our way to the campground turn off and we both smiled as we entered the Cathedral Valley Campground a-wash in moonlight. The expansive landscape was breathtaking. We both sat for a minute and took it all in. Not bad for the first day, that drive was amazing, Utah delivers the goods!!!
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Cathedral Valley Junction Monoliths |
After getting some much needed rest, as the night before Chris was up early to catch his flight to Utah. I, too, was up early to drive into SLC to meet him at the airport. We where both wiped out from the epic drive to the Cathedral Valley. We woke in the early hours of the morning excited to explore, with hot coffee in hand we wandered over to the campground lookout. Blown away while sipping hot cups of coffee, the view before us was as spectacular as if it was a first time sighting. The landscape was awesome and seeing the trail that we navigated in the dark the night before was every bit as remarkable as it was to drive it.
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Looking down Burr Trail Rd Waterpocket Fold Cliffs |
This was the same campground that Trixie and I stayed just weeks earlier. Actually it was the same campsite as well. It was left as we left it complete with the collection of petrified rocks I left on the picnic table. They were undisturbed. We broke camp and headed out, Glass Mountain, Temple of the Sun and Moon. So many rock formations we were literally swiveling our heads to catch all the magical beauty as we bounced over the trail. Making our way out of the valley we went west on SR24 to history rich Fruita and to gather homegrown apples and pears. We spent the night in a Torrey hotel as rain started to fall. Showers and dinner we made coffee in the am before catching SR12 south just on the edge of town.
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Grand Staircase-Escalante |
Today we tackled Burr Trail Rd.- this time from west to east. Turning east on NFS1668 we headed into the Grand Staircase-Escalante Monument. Here the Burr Trail Rd connects and guides you through this amazing land of slot canyons, rock formations and never ending vistas. We approached the famous switchbacks (Waterpocket Fold Cliffs) of Burr Trail Rd and made our way down twisting and turning while our ears and noses popped from the altitude drop as we descended downward. We continued on NFS1668 and followed it south over SR276. This part was incredible as rock turned black with gold layers of earth. We were part of a bigger landscape as we traversed the trail, the landscape just went on and on.
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The Gulch, Burr Trail Rd |
We headed to Canyonlands National Park through, you guessed it, the back door!! Our goal was to enter the Canyonlands National Park through Shafer Trial Rd from bottom to top. But first we drove on scenic SR95 as it traveled along the Dirty Devil River. Heading north we jumped on SR24 and headed into Green River to make camp. Talking to locals we found a campsite right on the river about 9 miles away. We camped at the last site available just before dark and we chilled by the river's edge looking up at the stars.
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Slot Canyon Rock Formations |
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Glass Mountain, Capital Reef National Park |
Up early we made coffee and hit the road HWY 191 to Moab. We needed provisions, gas, ice and beer!! Fueled up we packed our provisions and headed for the Shafer Trail Rd. HWY279, located on the opposite side of the entrance to Arches National Monument. This road went along the Colorado River as we climbed the twists and turns we entered the Canyonlands National Park. A Big Horn Sheep preserve, sheep were introduced into the area after near extinction from
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Clay Point Coal Bed Mesa |
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Pucker Pass |
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Henry Mountain |
hunting, poaching and competing evasive species over the years. The massive canyon wall was before us as we climbed through narrow passageways and rocky terrain. Near the top negotiating the switchbacks it started to rain, slick mud and rocky wet sand crumbled under our tires. We met up with another adventurer on the twisting road as they passed us down.ward I wondered how slick it would become with the rain now falling harder.
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Goose Necks, Canyonlands National Park |
We made it to the top lip and stopped for a quick time-out at the visitor center, with the falling rain it squashed our plans for a tailgate lunch-we pressed on. Checking the map one more time I spotted a trail just before Dead Horse Point State Park, Pucker Pass. It will take us back down the other side of the canyon and put us at the steps of Arches National Park, sweet!!
Now I know why they call it Pucker Pass, sheeesh-Kabob!! This trail was entirely awesome from the narrow cliffs to the rock crawling boulders. We faced a near impassable rock bridge, which we barely cleared with our RRT. We found ourselves feeling euphoric after completing two major canyon passes that all but left us speechless.
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Upper Desert Capital Reef National Park |
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Pucker Pass |
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Grand Staircase-Escalante, Stud Horse Peaks |
Back on HWY 191 we drove over to the entrance of Arches National Park, we entered the park after 5pm (no entrance Fee, $35, after 5pm). Looking for camping we took our time driving through the park as we headed to Devil's Garden Campground the only campground in the park. We passed one "over the top" rock formation after another, rock bridges and arches that defied gravity and have been for centuries. We pulled into Devil's Garden Campground, "Campground Full" read the sign, not this again! Deja vu.
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Arches National Park, Clover Canyon |
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White Canyon Flats, Grand Staircase-Escalante |
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Colorado River, Goose Neck, Canyonlands National Park |
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Balancing Rock, Arches National Park |
Although the campground looked almost full, there were some empty sites. After a quick inventory we knocked on the camp host's door. We were in luck #28 was available and we promptly made camp. Deja vu for sure!! The night sky was out and we were exhausted, a couple of beers and quick meal we sat and reminisced of the the day's triumph! This was the last night before we started to head north and west to meet the TAT.
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Pucker Pass, Fallen Rock Bridge |
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Cathedral Valley Junction, Capital Reef Park |
In the morning we made coffee and chilled as we warmed in the morning sun. Today we took a gravel road a backdoor to exit Arches National Monument. This was the same road that Trixie and I traveled. Staying on Salt Valley Trail, 4WD low before 10am was a start of a good day! Keeping straight ahead we connected to HWY191 just south of I-70 and Crescent Junction.
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Camping on Green River |
Jumping on I-70 we now are headed west towards Delta, UT., about 250 miles away, our new route to connect us to the TAT!
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Green River, Green River UT. |
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Old building at Goshen UT. |
See you on the Trail!!...
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Authors note; When Trixie and I explored this area 3wks ago we experienced smokey landscapes from neighboring states' wildfires. Now clear blue skies!!