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| Leaving Gonzaga Bay |
With prevailing winds and cool temps we foraged our way south from Gonzaga Bay to Bahia de los Angeles hoping we soon would be in warmer weather. As we headed away from Gonzaga Bay and the Gulfo de California we took the only paved road MEX 5.
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| run out of pavement headed to MEX 1 |
After a few kilometers the road started to turn into a construction zone as we took detour after detour and then it was a dirt track through a wilderness cacti garden. We viewed the many types of cacti as well as the famed protected endemic Valle de Cirios. A unique cacti found only in this region of Baja -quite stunning as they jetted out from the landscape in all sizes.
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| Trail to MEX 1 from Gonzaga Bay |
Keeping a keen eye on our GPS we managed to stay on the trail with some help of other travelers who crawled on the same track. Eventually we spilled out on to MEX 1 at the dry lake of Laguna de Chapala.
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| Many types of cacti including Cirio (background right) |
Turning left, south on MEX 1 we headed for the turnoff to
Bahia de los Angeles at Parador Punta Prieta. Heading east towards the
Mar de Cortez we traveled on a paved road winding through a desert scape valley about 88klm to the town of
Bahia de los Angeles. With many islands and rock monoliths off the coast of this bay the view was wonderful. A quick survey of this little town we found our way to
Campo Archelon.
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| Bahia de los Angeles |
Previously a Sea turtle research station it's now a family run camp with a few palapas and casitas catering to the more non-RV types. We nestled in a sweet spot between two casitas. This would be our home for the next three nights as we explored the surrounding area and made friends with the many four legged animals such as "Mar" a big black hound-lab mix and "Elvis" the one-eyed pug.
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| campsite at Campo Archelon |
The wind died down the last two nights and we settled in with a camp fire each nite. Whole fish on the grill caught by the local pescadera and a 3klm hike into town for some fish tacos and a very interesting tour of the regional
Museo de Naturaleza y Cultura, run by a local volunteers.
With temps still not as warm as we wanted we pulled up stakes and headed towards
Guerrero Negro on the
Pacific side. But first we took a 28klm off-road adventure from
Bahia de los Angeles to Mission San Francisco de Borja Adac the northern most stone mission on the
Baja peninsula est. in 1762. Getting there was a beautiful drive through this region. The road was slow going but the scenery was everywhere. We passed groups of fun seekers in side-by-sides and adventure motorcycles before we made it to the mission.
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| Road to Mission San Francisco de Borja |
Our tour guide Juan is 4th generation Cochimi. He is the mission's caretaker and head of restoration along with his son and family. His attention to detail and complete knowledge of the area was inspiring as we walked the mission grounds taking pleasure as we viewed the lay out of a time past. Our price for this tour was 10 liters of fuel from our reserves. We were happy to give, along with some pesos to buy more building materials. A quick munch of chips and cheese we were back on the dirt trail heading to MEX 1 at
El Rosarito some 22klm away.
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| Trixie with guide and caretaker Juan |
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| mission doors |
Heading due south on MEX 1 our goal was to make it to
Guerrero Negro 110klm away on the
Pacific side. Pulling in to
Guerrero Negro the sun was clouded by grey clouds and the temps were getting cooler. We chose a cheap hotel in the middle of town. As we settled in, it started to drizzle. Grabbing some delicious Tacos for dinner at the local shop we ate and returned to our room for a hot shower and some rest.
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| Land Cruiser in it's natural habitat |
The next morning was cloudy, damp and a chill was still in the air. We inquired about staying another night but with no luck as our hotel was booked. We packed up and ventured out to look for a camp spot before heading further south. We wanted to explore this fishing town so we searched for a camp spot at a local RV park.
Malarrimo RV park was just the ticket close to town and quiet enough. The site was around back, behind the restaurant, along with showers, toilets and electrical hook-ups. With a spot confirmed we drove the rig out of town and explored the old salt works plant located on a small peninsula about 5klm out. Here we viewed Sea hawks and birds of all kind foraging and fishing for food. Heading back into town we jumped on the famed fish taco truck located a block or two away from our campsite. Man, oh man!!
Tacos el Muelle taco truck, was every bit as good as fish tacos should be. We ate! I ate more fish tacos; they did not disappoint, oh we will
be back!! And, we did for breakfast the next morning.....
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| Decay in Guerrero Negro Salt works plant |
Our stay in
Guerrero Negro was 2 nights before pushing on. Making camp that night at the RV park to our surprise while enjoying a beer, a couple pulled up in a Toyota 4Runner equipped with a iKamper RTT, Holy Overlanders Batman!!. We both were attracted to each other like bees to honey, what are the chances!! Well as the story went, it seemed they too came from
Bahia de los Angeles after camping there several nights. They also met up with fellow known campers and before you know it, all 6 of us were having dinner and drinks at the on-site restaurant while swapping stories and adventures.
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| Damn good fish taco |
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| one Jefe to another |
The next morning we canceled reservations to go whale watching as the wind had not stopped and the temps were still cold. So we loaded up on provisions, gas and fish tacos and headed down south on MEX1 to
San Ignacio.
Traveling south we're hoping for better weather as we made camp in
Laguna San Ignacio 23klm south-west of
San Ignacio town for our whale watching experience.
Hope to see you on the Trail!!
🚙......
