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| Middle of Plaza Juarez |
The drive south to Loreto on MEX 1 was hot and dry, taking us away from the Mar de Cortez as we traveled through a rocky valley with dry dusty arroyos. On our right were the Sierra La Gigante mountain range providing a beautiful back drop as we sliced through this desert valley. Loreto was designated as Pueblo Magica in 2012. Here culture and history came together for this busy little sea side town.
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| Loreto the Playa |
The abundance of colonial architecture, a historic plaza and California's oldest mission (in both Baja and Alta) was a must visit. Entering Loreto our caravan cruised the streets looking for fish tacos and a cold refresco, El Reys del Taco touted as some of the best fish tacos in the area, with any luck we would find it open...it was not, dang! Instead we chose a small place across the street, sat down in the shade and ordered. After lunch we scouted out 3 different places to camp in town.
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| Along the streets of Loreto |
Frustrated as we navigated our way around, lots of unmarked one way streets and others blocked for walking traffic. It was confusing to say the least. We drove around and around at least 3-4 times trying our best to find this place or that place, finally I took a chance and turned up a road that was what we thought was for walking traffic only. We finally found the last choice on our list, No Vacancy double dang!! We talked with the host, he directed us to a campground a little further out of town. We called and reserved a spot big enough for both rigs to share. Nice!.
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| Camped at Rivera del Mar RV Park |
Rivera del Mar RV Park was a 10 min walk into town and 15 min walk to Plaza Juarez- no worries. We parked both rigs in a row to fill one RV spot and shared the fee. Electric, water, hot showers and clean rest rooms only a few steps away made it very convenient. The neighborhood surrounding the park was very pleasant and made our frequent walks into town a pleasure. Everything was in walking distance even the Super Ley market. We were soon strolling the plazas, stores and checking out the colonial architecture.
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| Strolling the Plaza Juarez |
Mision Nuestra Senora de Loreto completed in 1704 was located right on the tree lined Plaza Juarez. Walking the cobble stone plaza was indeed a pleasure as the century old trees created an arch for shade for those hot afternoons. Plenty of ice cream shops, bakeries, restaurants and textile stalls to browse. We made
Loreto our home for three nights, Jerry and Linda stayed for two nights then pressed on south.
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| Mision Nuestra Senora de Loreto |
The first two nights we walked around taking in the mission and the towns lay of the land. We enjoyed the little restaurants like
Almejas Concho. They prepared clams in a multitude of ways and we found the food in
Loreto to be authentic to this Baja region. In the morning we made coffee and enjoyed pastries from the local Pandaneria just a block and half away. We stayed an extra night while Linda and Jerry pulled up stakes and headed to
Bahia Agua Verde where we would meet up. That day we walked to the Super Ley Market for some provisions and on our way back I spotted a carnitas cocina.
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| Carnitas Cocina |
Here they cooked the carnitas the traditional way confit in a copper pot over open wood flames, man it was good! Trixie and I ordered a half of kilo of carnitas which came with all the fixins tortillas, salsa, and roasted chilles. I paid the lady $120mx. We sat on a bench across the street on Plaza Juarez chowing the succulent tender pork chunks de carnitas. With belly's full we lumbered back to our campsite chillin under the stars while the local dogs barked and the roosters crowed. The next morning we pulled up stakes to meet Linda and Jerry in
Bahia Agua Verde one of the most beautiful stretches of beach in Baja.
Packed up we pull out of
Rivera del Mar RV park and headed over to the agua purification plant to fill our jugs with clean pure drinking water. That's when my heart sunk into my stomach, where ITF is my WALLET? WHAT holy SHNikes where... Oh NO!!!! I searched everywhere even popped the RTT to see if I left it there-no luck. Immediately we went back to the park bench to ask the shop keepers if any one turned in a wallet. Then I ran across the street to the carnitas place closed til Sunday. It was Monday. The carnitas place was where I remembered having it last.
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| Panga's Loreto Marina |
We now headed back to the RV park and searched-NADA!! Now the panic was very real. I got online and on the phone, checked my CC balances luckily no activity. I was able to put a hold on them; replacement will be another story. Yolanda the camp host was very helpful. She pointed me to the Policia to report the missing wallet. She would contact me if anything showed up. So bummed I was not paying attention and misplaced my wallet about $300us $400mx, two credit cards and my valid drivers license. I'm most concerned about my drivers license. Oh well, I made a report at the station policia then we drove wordlessly out of
Loreto.
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| Overlook of Isla del Carmen leaving Loreto Mar de Cortez |
The drive to
Bahia Agua Verde was beautiful, just what I needed to take my mind off of the morning's stress. I found the turn off about 60klm south of
Loreto, took a left onto a road that became dirt after the first 10klm on this 47klm single track rugged road. We traversed through the southern part of the
Sierra la Giganta mountain range dropping into the most spectacular Bahia.
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| Sierra la Gigante mountain road to Bahia Agua Verde |
Bahia Agua Verde, a co-op fishing village, was unique in it self as there are only two places like it and this one happened to be in Mexico. Here they practiced a total sustainable fishing model.The Pangas (boats) traveled further out to find mature fish leaving the waters behind where the feeder fish breed and the adolescent fish grow.
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| Looking down on Playa San Cosme before Bahia Agua Verde |
For over 10 years the local fisherman have worked with Marine biologists to create a sustainable fishing practice. After talking with the Pangaderas they told me they saw the waters teaming with fish again. One Panga alone can bring in 500kg of fish in one trip, all line caught- no nets! I was amazed to see the results.
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| Pristine Bahia Agua Verde north shore |
The bay itself was gorgeous a life size aquarium at our door step. WeOverlander team with Linda and Jerry took day hikes, went snorkeling even fished from the shore catching small rooster fish. There was a little restaurant on the beach where we ate on occasion, meeting other travelers off of anchored boats and other overlanders who pilgrimaged here year after year.
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| Local catch Bahia Agua Verde, Red Snapper |
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| Exposed coastline low tide Bahia Agua Verde |
Here we camped for three nights before saying goodby to our new found friends, Jerry and Linda. Their time was limited and they were headed north to their lives with grandchildren back in the states.
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| Base Camp Bahia Agua Verde |
WeOverlander adventures were sweeter with Linda and Jerry as we felt a connection and a bond with some very like minded travelers. Its what this is all about "Overlanding" meeting people who at a crossroads in time come together to enjoy each others company and share common experiences. Cheers! to Linda and Jerry til our trails cross again!!
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| Jerry exploring rocky coast Bahia Agua Verde |
Heading out of
Bahia Agua Verde we connected back to
MEX 1 south west over to the
Pacific side to
San Carlos.
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| Calm waters Bahia Agua Verde |
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| Colorado crew Linda and Jerry |
Hope to see you on the Trail!!
🚙.........🚙....
