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| Playa Viudas boardwalk to the beach |
Once we left Todos Santos and El Pescadero it was all highway to the southern most part of Baja California Sur on MEX 19. The west side of the Cape is mostly sand dunes that make way for vast arroyos. Although Todos Santos is only 45klm from Cabo San Lucas we took our time and enjoyed the mountainous scenery. Along the west coast we dipped into arroyo after arroyo. When we arrived in Cabo San Lucas it was just around rush hour traffic a different feel entering from the north west. Jockeying for position with trucks of all sizes this was definitely the industrial commerce side of this vacation playground.
We ended up bypassing Cabo San Lucas all together, hot dusty masses of vehicles clogging intersections it was a bit of culture shock from being in small towns and villages overwhelming to say the least. We could see the cruise ships moored out in the bay and the hordes of traffic, well we just kept going.
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| Playa Viudas calm surf |
Eventually
MEX 19 turned into
MEX 1 as we rounded the cape about 25klm further south we drove into
San Jose del Cabo. Busy yes but a bit more manageable as the road hugged this gorgeous rugged coast line, massive swank hotels dripping over the cliffs rocky edges plunging down to the pristine beaches below. We did some quick scouting and found a little family run restaurant "Las Cazuelas del Don" just what we needed to get acclimated to the area.
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| The Don Cazuelas |
Many of the public beaches in the area are spotless, some with better amenities than others we picked
Playa Viudas about 15min south from
San Jose Del Cabo town center. We camped in a sandy parking lot just footsteps from the prettiest beach. Outside showers, flush toilets all under 24/7 surveillance free of charge. The beach and parking lot was well maintained by a crew of federal employees. Walking onto the beach boardwalk was incredible as the first 1000 square yards of manicured sand are zen like sculptures, each with different patterns. The water was cool, clear and refreshing.
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| Playa Viudas camp spot |
The surf was up the first couple of days as the waves repeatedly pounded the sandy and boulder strewn shoreline. 25 years ago I broke my leg playing in surf like this just about 25klm south in
Cabo San Lucas. So I was in no hurry to completely plunge in. In the mean time we toured
San Jose del Cabo historic district, walking the many streets. Shops and restaurants were busy with a steady flow of tourists.
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| Mision San Jose Del Cabo Anuiti built in 1940 |
The Plaza Teniente Jose Antonio Mijares was a bustle with locals and tourists alike music playing and kids running around. We perched ourselves on a bench licking some delicious ice cream in the afternoon heat. We also did some grocery shopping and I have to say the super markets are just that, "SUPER!!!". Amazing the butcher shop has a super modern climate controlled dry aging meat locker, with various cuts at various days or weeks of dry-aging.
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| La Panga Restaurant |
To enjoy while you shop they have a by-the glass wine cruvinet with at least 12 or more flavors complete with various selections of pour measures, a Tap-room stocked with many available beers for you to enjoy by the glass or to fill your growler. A massive glass enclosed Tequila and Serrano Ham boutique. A fish market that was punctuated by a 60ft high-def video screen, felt like you were in a aquarium. A bakery dept that was as big as a factory everything made on-premise this place was huge. Oh... and you could also by a 500cc fully outfitted enduro adventure motorcycle or the latest cook top for your kitchen...did I say HEAVEN!!!
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| Dry-age locker |
After about the third day the surf started to calm down so we visited a near by beach that was a favorite for swimming
Playa de Chileno and we took full advantage. Working up an appetite we scoured our reference material for the best local fish taco joint around, what we did find was some damn good taco de carnitas "Los Michoacanos". We ordered fresh-made Orden de guacamole served with chicharron and tortilla chips the order was massive, plus 5 tacos de carnitas simply superb. We headed back to camp for some beers, tequila shots and a evening walk on the beach. Stunning!!!
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| Tacos San Jose del Cabo |
As much as we hated to leave
San Jose del Cabo there was plenty of fantastic beaches yet to explore as we made our way north towards
La Paz. Pulling up stakes we took Bento Juarez road heading north up the east cape coastline. This rugged coastline was home to some of BCS's top surf spots.
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| Nice swim beach Santa Maria |
We past little enclaves of homes and shacks nestled on cliffs overlooking coves with endless breaking surf. Public access is everywhere this is boon-docking for sure. There are no facilities so you have to carry everything you need.
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| 9-Palms Surf beach wild camping |
The road turned dirt track with plenty of corrugations the views were spectacular. About marker 45klm we chose a well known surf spot called
9-Palms. There was a least a dozen overlanders/campers/surfers/SUPs camped here and looking at the surf you could see why.
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| Keeping an eye on his surfing master |
It was a friendly community with visiting dogs almost permanent boon-dockers and huge bonfires at night. Although we don't surf it was exciting to watch the "kooks" do their thing.
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| Watch your step! |
We camped here for 2 nights before pushing on north along the east cape coastline. As we headed up we passed the
Tropic of Cancer just around
Cabo Pulmo we stoped for a refreshing swim and take in the coastal beauty.
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| 4 wheeling beach front Punta Colorada |
We connected back onto
MEX 1 making our way further north to
Los Barriles a well-known spot for kite-surfing..
Hope to see you on the Trail!!.....
🚙.........
